How to remove lead wrist cupping with a strong grip?

Video is quite dark and fast. Seems that your lead shoulder should be more down.

This is what I’m trying to clean up - clear flipping and likely hip rotation too early in transition

https://gt.golf/DlO8Cn

Concerning the bowing of the lead wrist:

Tony Finau starts the bowing beginning the downswing.

For me it is easier to do this.

Bowing at the backswing like Jon Rahm does not work for me (think that my backswing should be more steep to bow like he does).

Also it's awesome when both of my main questions end up with the same approach! https://sagutogolf.wixsite.com/sagutogolf/forum/main/comment/61ef65545cea7500160f93af

Perfect, thanks for the clarification on the hip bump / T2T - this makes sense to me too after looking at recent video of my swing. Appreciate the continued guidance!

Tom has a great video on it in the KFC crispy videos and I think it's also it the get out and plays videos. He calls it Tailbone to target. Essentially, you're tailbone should never move away from the target. See link below.

So, yes you should not rotate immediately from the top. If your rotated without the "hip bump" your tailbone would move backwards.

This Move Makes You A GREAT BALL STRIKER - Hit Perfect Golf Shots (saguto.golf)

Hey @Nocona Colt Abernathy - one more follow up here - for your third tip on over-active hips - is your suggestion to reduce the hip turn in transition to allow the arms to come down first, then rotate through impact? Kind of like keeping the back to the target a bit longer and *not* rotating immediately from the top?

@David Theobald - Not sure I'd classify 5-10 yards as a massive overdraw, but I see you're point. I tend to play with the strong lead wrist as well. I've tried getting my wrist bowed, and I didn't really have any luck. Basically, it comes down to you're forcing something instead of letting it happen naturally. But, I got a couple tips to add to what Tom has said.

1) Make sure you are aiming enough right. The goal is to eliminate one side of the course, so if you play a draw and you sometimes "over draw", then, make sure you are aiming for the draw you're playing. If you want to go for a flag, you wouldn't aim at the flag unless your we're going to hit the ball perfectly straight.

2)Extend, extend, extend. The extension of your body that happens at impact keeps the path in to out, coupled with a strong grip produces a draw. If you don't extend, you change that path very rapidly back to neutral, which means the ball starts left of intended start line.

3)Check your hips. This goes along with extension, but too much rotation of the hips cause cause this as well.

@David Theobald - I suppose you have seen my YT episode on this very topic? In S&T vernacular, a strong grip is a component of a "closed attachment", which is generally deployed along with the Grid to play a pull-fade shot shape. As you have determined, the elimination of the natural cup of a strong grip takes some active manipulation, and that introduces a variable to the swing.

So, if you are adamant about sticking with a strong grip, some possible solutions are:

1) Acknowledge the tendencies and just deal with them.

2) Open the face a tad bit prior to gripping the club, and then "Rahmbow" it at the top with no further manipulation on the way down. (This will obviously require experimentation with varying degrees of openness in order to dial in your desired shape.)

3) Be a "functional flipper", as many golfers - including some Tour players - have managed to play well with.

4) Set up for a pull-fade shot shape and enjoy it.